I wanted to shake up my life and go sailing (or learn on the job, so-to-speak) so headed to Florida to crew on a catamaran. This is about how it went or, rather, didn't - and my life since. Hopefully it will lead to a catamaran on the clear aqua blue waters of the Caribbean Sea, watching the sunset, a coconut rum and coke in hand. You must START AT THE BEGINNING of the blog, April 2009, to get the whole story...
Showing posts with label Prickly Bay Marina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Prickly Bay Marina. Show all posts

Monday, October 28, 2013

NEW BEACH, NEW FRIEND, AND MORE PIZZA

Up at 6:30 - ugh, short night.

Yesterday Michael offered to take me to a different beach today, Morne Rouge. It is just over the hill from the end of Grand Anse but he picks me up at the hotel in the same friend's car as yesterday. There's lots of bread to be delivered in the car and I haven't had breakfast so the aroma is mouth watering.

It is so hot out today. We get to the beach and I walk the length of it looking for sea glass but there isn't even one piece. There are a few really nice small shells, however.

If I want a beach chair here, I will have to pay for it - $10 EC for the day. I decide to go to hotel on the beach, Kalinago Resort, for breakfast.  There's a lovely restaurant/bar right on the beach. There's no one there but one server. I order the potato waffle. I haven't had one of those ever so am intrigued. It comes with a plate of fruit to start. One of them is a guava. I haven't had that before either, and it's not bad. Sort of like a small pear with a lot of hard but edible seeds. When the potato waffle comes, it doesn't taste at all like I imagined, going off the long list of local spices listed on the menu that should be in it; it is rather bland. So I hit it with salt and pepper and ketchup.  Disappointing.

Nice beach bar for breakfast at Kalinago

Fruit plate with guava

Mike wants to leave the beach, he was hoping to meet up with some musician friends, he has brought his djembe in hopes of jamming with them, but they don't show up. I am fine with leaving as there's not much here but I know it is going to be a very hot walk back so buy a Ting for the trip.

I nearly die.

Ok, I nearly pass out. It is so incredibly hot and there's not much shade along the road. Getting to the beach nearly did me in but the walk on the sand to the Allemanda nearly killed me. SO SO hot and incredibly dificult to walk on the soft sand when this exhausted.  Why I don't stop for a swim - I just don't know really.  I think it is knowing my thighs will chap when wet, having to walk so far and also, I am really so exhausted from the heat, all I want to do is collapse onto a lounge. When we get to the Allemanda, it takes me 20 minutes of sitting in the shade, unable to even speak, to recover.

Cool cabin on the way back

Gorgeous view down to Grand Anse from up here

Caribbean colours at The Flamboyant

It suddenly begins to storm, starting with waves coming in on the beach getting bigger and bigger each passing minute until they are much bigger than usual. The rain starts and comes down hard so we take shelter at Ali Baba restaurant at the Allemanda for a drink and I order us some hummus. Mike talks a lot about his friendship and relationship with Rick.

The rain finally stops so we go back to the beach and in for a swim. The water is so incredibly warm!

It starts to look like rain again and, sure enough, starts while we pack up. I decide to stay at the Allemanda in the lobby and read for a bit until it lets up. Mike wants to go so we say goodbye and I, knowing I won't see him again, feel a little sad.

Bye, Mike

After a bit, I walk to my hotel in drizzling rain. Something is going on again at the grounds by the roundabout and this time it is all kids in school uniforms and there is very loud Caribbean music. Really loud. I can even hear it from my hotel room.



I change, freshen up, and walk back to the mall to get some Ting. I've been out of something to drink for two days. There is actually a traffic jam on the road because they've make the beach side a one way while this thing is going on at the grounds.

I buy some bubble wrap to protect some stuff I have bought to take back. Note to self: next trip, PACK SOME!! As if I don't have enough of it at home - sheesh!

Christmas has, apparently, arrived at the mall

I call Joe, the taxi driver that Mike Sweeney recommended, to take me to Prickly Bay Marina for dinner - I must have pizza there one last time. It takes several tries to connect - I can hear the line is live but he never replies to me. A ride there with him is $70 EC return. Seems steep but it's worth it for the peace of mind as he is so professional.

No one I know is at Prickly but I get talking to a guy beside me at the bar, Joe from Maine originally but now he lives on St.Thomas yet is in Grenada indefinitely on his boat. He is a very young self-made millionaire - bought and sold marinas. I have a nice time chatting with him and watching the boating crowd. A bit more upscale than the Hog Island crowd, but still not my scene.

The sunset is spectacular.

Joe from Maine

With Joe from Maine

Gorgeous sunset over Prickly Bay


I am back at my hotel by 9:00 to loud and inconsiderate Italian (or whatever) neighbours.

I want to go over there and scream at them.  My British reserve and/or Canadian politeness keeps me in my room.

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

BEACH, BURGER, AND A (SMELLY) BAG OF ALOE

Up at 8:30 after a fabulous sleep. I love how quiet this place is.

I read over the proof read one more time and email back and forth with Mike a bit until we get it just right.

I grab a couple of gingersnaps for breakfast and walk down to the computer store on 'Wall Street' (named so because there are several banks on that block) just by the big roundabout at the end of my road. They have a cord for my phone at $105 EC or $42 Canadian. I hate to pay that much but I need it.

Close by is the Allamanda Beach Resort, a sister hotel to where I am staying. Because of this, I can use their deck chairs to lounge on the beach. I head over there and have to ask at the desk for the chairs to be unlocked. I take two in case Regina comes by.

It's a partially sunny day and yet super hot so I put the chairs in the shade of one of the huge seagrape trees that are along this stretch of sand. I read for two hours and am constantly being interrupted by local men and women asking me if I want to purchase handcrafted jewelry, or do I want my hair braided (no!!!!), or would I like a foot massage. Most do leave when I say 'no thank you' but the constant interruption is annoying and the odd one who won't take no for an answer is as well. One great thing though, I am wearing the bracelet I bought on Mayreau so those who are selling a similar item notice it and say 'oh I see you have one' and leave me alone.

Ahhh... perfect!

A fellow walks up to my chair and hands me a business card, his name is Tom. He tells me that he runs tours of the island and asks if I am interested. I am, actually, so he asks if he can sit down and he sits on the edge of my lounge. He explains the full island tour and prices and I ask a few questions. I mention that I am looking for a new taxi driver and he tells me he drives taxi as well so I arrange for him to pick me up at 5:30 at my hotel for dinner at Prickly Bay with Rick and Alessandra. I tell him I will think about the tour (as his price seems steep to me). He eventually leaves and we agree to 'see you later'.

Shortly after I think I see Regina and Bruce heading towards me along the waters edge and I stand up and wave to them. They wave back. They get close and... it isn't them! I am so shocked because they both looked exactly like them from a distance. I get ready to explain myself but as they walk close enough to talk to, they completely ignore me - no eye contact at all. Hmmm.

Growing hungry, I realize that it is almost noon so I walk down the beach in search of a restaurant and find a place called Umbrellas near by. It isn't right on the beach, there is a packed sand parking lot between, but it's close enough that I feel okay about going in with just a swimsuit and cover up shirt. I ask to be seated outside on the upper deck and love the view from there.

View from my table at Umbrellas

I am dying for a burger so order one and a nutmeg milkshake. I don't usually drink milkshakes but I want to try the nutmeg one. I mention to the waiter that I'd like to charge my phone if there is an outlet nearby but he says there isn't. He offers to charge it behind the bar downstairs and I gratefully accept. The weather is warm and breezy, broken cloud with about 30% blue sky. I hope the rain holds off today.

Nutmeg Milkshake...mmmm!

The meal is exceptionally good and the shake is delicious! I decide I will definitely be back and trying more of their menu.  When it comes time to leave, I am rather self conscious as more patrons have arrived and they are all dressed for either a business lunch or a ladies lunch out with friends. I feel very underdressed and decide that I can't come back here unless I am dressed for it so no more beach lunches at Umbreallas.

Enhanced view

I head back to Allamanda and the chairs have been put back so I have to get them unlocked again. I just get one for me this time. As I sit there, a dog walks up to me and stands beside my chair and gazes into my eyes for about a minute. I look back at him and say 'hi' and give him a pat on the head. He continues to gaze into my face and then suddenly turns, walks a couple of steps to the rear of my chair and collapses onto the sand in the shade. He instantly falls asleep and stays there for a couple of hours. I guess he was checking me out to make sure I was trustworthy.

A weary dog who just needed a safe place to sleep for a while

After a couple of hours or so I decide to walk down the beach in search of sea glass and I don't get very far when who should be waving at me from a distance but Regina! So we walk back to my chair, get a second one and sit together and chat until I have to go and get changed for dinner. We agree to try to meet up again tomorrow.

I walk back and get changed and fixed up. Tom, the driver, arrives on time and seems rather taken aback by the change in my appearance - something I have encountered before as I know I tend to look fairly hideous on the beach with no makeup and limp hair clipped back off of my face. He compliments me and I just smile and say 'thanks' as I head down the steps towards his van... which is a total wreck. As he gives me a hand up into the back, I bang my head on a rusted piece of metal hanging by wires from the ceiling and I realize that it is the dome light that has come loose and is not working. I can't see but it feels like it cut my forehead. I decide on the spot that there is no way I am going for an 8 hour tour in this heap. The seat I am on is completely wrecked with lumpy springs under my butt.

He asks me a lot of personal questions on the drive to Prickly Bay but that seems to be the norm for males in these parts and I give short answers. It's about a 20 minute drive so there's a lot of questions.  I am relieved when we arrive at the destination and I ask to him to come back for me at 9.

Rick and Alessandra arrive about 20 minutes after me and they have a couple of people with them, a girl named Dasha and a local fellow named Michael. Dasha has a heavy accent that sounds a lot like Andy Kauffman playing Latka. Over beer, hamburgers, and pizza we have a nice evening. There is a trivia game that anyone can take part in and it is awful as the questions are seriously stupid - trivia no one but a specialist on the subject would know.

Tom arrives right on time and so I have to go even though I could have stayed another hour, and he is exhibiting impatience as I say my goodbyes which I find inappropriate but I don't say anything about it.

He has noticed my blistered and peeling shoulders (I will peel from my hairline to my toes before this vacation is over) and offers to stop at a friend's place to cut me some aloe vera. I thank him but tell him no. He insists it is no trouble. Again I say no, that it is okay. He then insists that I need it so I say fine. He heads in a completely different direction than we came in and soon we are on a pot-holed dirt road in the middle of nothing and nowhere. There are no houses, no street lights, just the glow from his headlights illuminating a few feet ahead and on each side of the road. It passes through my mind that this may not end so good for me but I take hope in the fact that he listens to Christian radio (there's been sermons blaring on it the entire time I've been in the van).  But him continuously saying 'let your heart be not afraid, I am not going to hurt you' without provocation could kind of negate that hope. However, deep down, I sense that his intentions are good, and sure enough, we pull off into a cleared area where there are several huge yucca plants and he jumps out and cuts off two huge leaves. He gets back in and fishes around on the floor until he finds a bag and puts them inside and hands them to me. I thank him and we get on our way.  There has been an odd unpleasant odour in the van since getting in at the marina and it just got incredibly stronger. I gingerly sniff at the bag in my hands. It is coming from there. I lay it on the floor.

We pass by the airport - we actually drive right through the pick-up area, and he is flagged down by a uniformed customs officer. Now what?! They exchange some words that I don't understand and then the passenger door opens and a woman gets in. I recognize her as one of the customs clerks that was present when I checked into the country. Apparently we are giving her a ride into town. She never looks back where I am and never says a word to me so I don't know if she even realizes I am there. She and Tom talk a bit but, honestly, despite my trying very hard, I can't pick up more than a word here or there. Hard to believe they are speaking English!

Once we are back at the hotel the driver tells me he'd like to take me out for coffee in the morning. I tell him no thank you. He then offers to come in and put the aloe vera on my back for me. Uhhh... no. He is really pushy about seeing me in the morning but I tell him again that I am not interested. He again offers to put the aloe vera on for me and I tell him firmly that I can handle it myself and I walk up the stairs to my door carrying the smelly bag of stems. He calls after me and says will I please, please think about going out for a drink with him and I say I will think about it just to get rid of him but there is no way I want to see this guy again. I feel so uncomfortable. I need a new cab driver. Mike gave me the name of a guy they use and I had intended to call him after my bad experience with Cat Eye but then this guy appeared on the beach and I figured why not just go with him but it was clearly a mistake. I will be calling Joe, Mike's guy, tomorrow.

I go to the kitchen to cut some aloe vera and when I pull it out of the bag I am overwhelmed with the odour of some sort of curry and see that there is a bright yellow oily slick on both stems of the plant. It just reeks - I mean, I love curry but this is not just curry. I have no idea what it is that smells like that but it is absolutely disgusting. I wash the stems off with dish soap and water and dry them to see that there is still a yellow stain on the stem. I cut a piece off of one and put the rest in the fridge. I then go about slicing the piece open and rubbing it on my shoulders and back as far as I can reach. As I climb into bed and get comfortable, I realize that I smell like that awful curry. It is absolutely nauseating and I get up, wash my hands and spray some perfume on myself before getting back into bed. It doesn't really help.

Friday, October 11, 2013

YVR to LAX to MIA to GND

As usual for me, I get to Vancouver airport far too early but I'd rather that than be freaking out because I am afraid of missing my flight.  I went through that one time in Miami, and I never want to feel that level of stress and panic over the very real prospect of missing a flight ever, ever again.  I actually have time to have a nice, leisurely meal as I knew there'll be nothing served on the flights.

My flight from LA to Miami is overnight, arriving at 6:30am and I have a 9 hour layover.  Walking through the terminal I see a sign for American Airline's Admiralty Lounge.  Oh what a great idea!  On enquiring, it will cost me $50 US dollars but I consider that a small price to pay for some peace and comfort.   There are free snacks and a couple of machines that dispense the best hot chocolate I've ever tasted - some sort of spice in it.  Add to that, huge windows looking out onto the runway and a plethora of magazines and the 9 hours virtually flies by.

My plane to Grenada!

The plane is an hour and a half late leaving thanks to some passenger suddenly deciding he no longer wishes to fly to Grenada.  The luggage compartment is opened up and the handlers begin to search for his bag.  It takes them 35 minutes to finally find it, and we can hear them tossing the bags about, then the pilot comes on the intercom to tell us that, in the search, the wall of the compartment has been damaged and a panel is being brought over to replace it.  I looked at my seat-mate, a lovely looking 35ish fellow "If that's the case, what kind of shape must our luggage be in?!?" I ask and we both laugh a bit nervously.   We get to chatting and it turns out he is from Belize, an officer in the military there, and is the assistant to their Governor General who is up in first class.  They are flying to Grenada on official business to do with the 30th anniversary of the toppling of the post-coup military invasion.  I had not realized until this moment that it was the anniversary let alone 30 years.

My lovely Belizean seat-mate - wish I had written down his name.

Having lost our place in the lineup for take-off, once the panel is replaced, we have another half hour wait on the tarmac for our turn to go.  I am worried because Rick is planning to meet me at 7:30 at the airport in Grenada so send him a quick text and let him know I won't be there till 9.

We arrive in Grenada and it is so hot!!  The heavy warm air is fabulous!  And again, that scent that only comes in a tropical environment fills my senses and I feel giddy with excitement.

Rick isn't here yet so I take the time to use the ATM in the departure area to get the Caribbean dollars I will need.  Thanks to Trip Advisor, I knew this was a good place to tick this off of my short list of things to do.

Rick and his girlfriend, Alessandra, finally arrive with a video camera to record my 'arrival'.  Rick is bearing a mug of rum and coke for me.  It is icy cold and very welcome, if rather strong for my taste.

We get into the cab of a character named 'Cat Eye' and head over to Prickly Bay Marina, where the boat is anchored.  Being that it is dark out, I can't see much of the island but I can see enough to realize that the roads are impossibly narrow and that people drive like madmen.  And there are people walking at the side of the road everywhere!  I am thinking my idea not to rent a car until I get a feel for what driving here might be like was a good one!

At the marina, we head over to the boat in the dinghy to get my stuff aboard and so I can change into something much much lighter, and then head back to the marina to join the party happening at the bar there.  I am famished so order a pizza.  Honestly, it is the best pizza I have had in my life.  Thin, crispy crust and delicious toppings.  I wash it down with a cold Carib... I don't drink beer as I don't like it but didn't know what else to order and it actually went great with the pizza.



Rick, Me and Alessandra - no idea who the other guy is

I am very happy to finally be on this island and to sleep on a sailboat tonight!


All photographs are mine and not to be copied without express permission from me (click on them to see the large version).
Some names have been changed to protect my butt.



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